In this article you can read about several aspects of the project
of building my very own unique touringbicycle : the OnTheRoad 4.0.
Then if you want to build your own unique bicycle you need to do some a whole lot
of detailengineering and create a very good planning.
As usual you can change minor parts quite easily afterwards but you can not change the major parts.
And it are the major parts that make your bicycle great.
After which the minor parts make it excellent 💯.
Steel frame ?
It is hard to imagine why anyone should want a steel frame.
The reason always is said to be that a steel frame can be welded if broken.
It can but it can't.
- There are no bicycleshops left (for 40+ years ...) that can weld (or solder) anything.
Why should they ?
Bicycleshops are clean and welding (and grinding, etc) is Dirty.
If you want (have) to take the risk you could probably find a car"garage".
- There are also no welders left (for 20+ years ...) that can weld (or solder) anything
this critical concerning wall"thick"ness.
- Limiting yourself to anything made of steel will limit you enormously.
- Ever even seen (or even read about) a broken frame ???
You might have since there are some videos concerning this and they always are steel frames ...
If shit would ever happen to you, ie an accident, just order or buy a new (or used) frame
and rebuild your bike.
- The reason a steel frame breaks is exactly because they are flexible.
They therefor break exactly next to the weld (which is not flexible).
- Even the most "famous" brands don't use steel frames anymore.
They talk about "strong" frames but there trick is to not mention the word "steel".
If you like "steel" your brain will automatically translate "strong" into "steel".
But there frames are Not made of steel.
Why should they ???
- No motorbikes exist with steel frames, not even with 200+ horsepower.
Guess why ?
- No fork can be repaired, regardless of whatever.
- Never ever ride a bike (any bike !) with a repaired fork.
It will break Again directly next to the first repair.
- And so will you ...
- It is hard to imagine why people don't want discbrakes.
The reason is always said to be they are not reparable (by you yourself).
- They are reparable, every shop can and you can (if you want to ...).
- But you don't need to repair them since they won't fail.
- And they don't need maintenance, or at least a factor 100x less then rimbrakes.
- Changing (and adjusting !) disc brakepads is more simple than rimbrake pads.
PeeeeeeP ...
- They Will stop you going downhill at 15% with your 140 kgs in total.
- They won't block your wheels in the mud.
- Limiting yourself to rimbrakes will limit you enormously.
- They don't eat your rims (as hydraulic * HS33 rimbrakes do)
so you don't need new wheels so now and then.
- * Which have exactly the same construction and type of parts discbrakes have ...
Tip : never ever choose for mechanical (cable) operated discbrakes !
Hydraulics is what you need !
One finger will do the job.
- Make a list with all (all) the aspects you can think of that might be important for your bicycle.
- Put noteblocks (plus pencils) around your house, be able to write down any idea immediately.
This might be the most important thing to do !!!
- Start way far in advance with your oriëntation.
Even after a long time you will think of more details.
And for sure they all are important, no mather what they are about.
- Filter your details-list.
Look at all kind of examples you can find.
Think about their pro's and cons (for you).
- Keep in mind that everything can be changed or altered afterwards.
Often even simple, fast and at low costs.
Just not the frame and fork !
- Look for a bicyle manufacturer that sells framesets, so just frame and fork.
- Make a double appointment (per email), so for 2 testrides.
- Mention the exact type of bicycle you want to testride and your theoretical frameheight.
- Make (very) sure what your goal is so that there will be no misunderstandings or delays at arrival.
- So explain that you want to make a real tour but will return before dawn.
- Plan ie a four-day trip to that manufacturers site *.
- Confirm your visit shortly before !
- Testride * that (type of) bike at days 1 and 4 (and ie relax make mountainbiketours
at days 2 and 3 *)
- Be sure to be able to adjust the height of the seatpost and the angle of the steer and saddle
during the rides.
- Have a thorough look at the number and height of the distancerings below the steeringstem.
Showroom bikes have a lot of them since their stem will not yet be shortened to fit
any particular customer.
- Rearrange those rings if you think it will make you a better ridingposition.
This can easily be done while on the road.
- Also have a look at the length and position of the stem and the steer,
are they pointing up or down and how much ?
- And at the offset of that seatpost (if any).
- Analyse the seatingheight in comparision to the bracketheight.
On a touringbike the bracketheight should not be to heigh and not be to close to the seat.
- Then determine the correct framesize in two ways :
- Your seatingheight should be with your knees very slightly bended when cycling.
So your legs should not be fully stretched nor get to far stretched.
You can't apply decent power if your legs are over or understretched !
- Be aware that there exist crancks of 160mm, 165mm, 170mm and 175 mm.
This difference seems overdone but the correct seatingposition is crucial.
- Measure the distance from the flat pedal uppersurface to the uppersurface of the saddle.
- And also measure the innerlength of your leg.
Put off your shoes and stand straight to a wall.
Push a book to the wall all the way up between your legs (yes, pfh).
Make a mark at the wall at the upperedge of the book and measure that height from the floor on.
- Decide about the wheels.
- Have a good look at the maximum weightload of the rims !
A really fully packed touringbike plus driver could weigh up to 150 kilos.
Whereby rule of thumb is that about 2/3 ths is at the rearwheel.
- Judge the maximum tire pressure that the rims will allow you to use
(since that pressure will also try to
spread the rimwalls 🖱️...).
- Do you want a dynamohub ?
And for what reason precisely ?
Have a look at the chapter
"Electrical Powerplant" 🖱️
by clicking here.
- Hub bearings are always of very good quality.
But you can choose for the loose bearingballs system or for industrial ballbearings.
- If you choose for industrial bearings then note down their size(s) Now in your computer.
Only then will you be able to easily order spare ones on forehand and before having to disassemble the hub first ...
Don't just rely on online info, articlenumbers can be wrong and it migh take some time for those (wrong) bearings to arrive while out there.
- If you stick to rimbrakes (don't ...) the rims will end way before the bearings will.
- Many rearhubs have a 36 degree freeplay since they use a 10-point engagement.
However some have a 36-point engagement and therefore only a 10 degree freeplay.
The latter is fine if you use a gearbox like Pinion that has already its own freewheel construction.
Tip : you can easily bloc the rearhub freewheel by putting in some small plastic strips.
- Which fixing system do you prefer for the brakediscs ?
Choice is between the ringlock and the 6-bolt systems.
The ringlock is the same as of the rear cassette so then you don't need an extra tool.
But that (complete) tool is big and heavy and those bolts only need a 10 gram starkey.
- Can you find matching hubs ?
If you don't want those hubs, take the other type of discs.
But preferably use the same type of fixingsysten front and rear.
- Can you do with rims that will (only) fit small valves ?!
No you can't since you never know which tubes might (not) be available at the place you run out of spare ones.
- Many manufacturers can also offer you custom prepared wheels.
There are also a lot of wheels-only manufacturers.
- Which brings you the possibility to choose the best parts available and so have the best wheels
(for your purpose) available.
- If you decide to use the belt drive system (you should) then take a lot of pictures of
the rearhub - beltsprocket assembly of a same type of showroom bike.
- Since aligning the belt correctly is the most difficult job.
A belt is not flexible sideways (since it is a carbonconstruction) so this is rather critical.
- Wheelsets have 4 sides of spokes and they all could be of different lenght !
So order ie 5 spare spokes of every lenght that is used in your wheels.
And order ie 10 pieces of spoke nipples.
-Check for the color(s) that are available.
- If you decide to have your own unique colorscheme then order the parts unpainted (and ask for a discount).
- During the above process, think about whether you would also want to buy other parts and components at that same adress.
- Order accordingly.
- Pay That Bill ...
- Or do not order if you are not convinced ...
- The Frame is The part that will lett you enjoy your rides.
Or will Not.
- And buy all the bags you want to use.
But do
take care of the enviroment 🖱️
and (so) do not buy pvc-bags !
- Be aware that large bags mounted at the front could hit the ground when really cycling offroad
if you have any traditional frontrack.
So then consider to use a higher mounted frontrack.
- Select and buy the luggageracks.
- If you ordered unpainted parts now is the time to start thinking about the color scheme.
- Powdercoating is a matter of static electricity.
The parts are hung at a rail that is connected to the electrical minus of the system.
The spraygun is connected to the electrical positive of the system.
That way the powderparticles (which are plastic-particles) will (all) fly from the electrical gun
to the metal.
Then the rail with the powdered parts is pushed into an oven where the powder is baked
for some 20 minutes at 180C.
So for reasons of electricity and of heat only metal parts can be powdercoated.
- Which also means that only 1 color per part is possible.
- And only on fully disassembled and fully degreased parts.
- Visit a home construction market were you will find free color samplesheets at the decoration department.
- Look for websites were you can compose a bike yourself and have a look at the color chapter.
- Download pictures of bicycles in several colors, change the colors in a photoeditor and save and compare the several ideas.
- Look for a (nearby) powdercoating company, make an appointment, meet the chef and discuss and decide about the colors.
They have the experience with their process and with creating nice colors and -combinations.
- Ask about the (always necessary) sandblasting of all the parts.
Normally it is included, but sometimes it is not.
- Agree upon the price and conditions, and ask for a timeschedule !
- Note the colornumbers and/or ask for samples *
- Ask whether they allow you to make pictures at their site.
Offer them to send them copies of those, And Do So !!!
- Your bike is unique so it should have a special name !
- Check if that name is available to buy as domainname.
If so do that !
- If not consider another name !
- The same is actual in case you consider to create a blog !
- Look (online) for a label manufacturer and check for matching colors and finishes to fit your bike.
- Measure the bikeparts for maximum length and height of the stickers you want.
- Be aware of the "stock-height" principle which is the height from the highest point to the lowest point
of any given lettercombination.
- If you have choosen not to have your own colors then this is the final assembly.
Else it is not.
- Assemble the bike for the first testrides, decide about all details and adjustments that can not be altered after coating *
- Do Not Yet shorten any part, like steer and steering tube.
- Install all small parts at the handlebar to determine their correct position.
Like mirror, grips, brakehandles, ringer, gps-, phone- and handlebarbag-bracket (plus safetycable).
- Check and re-check belt-alignment and -tension !!!
- Install the handlebar-bag if you have one.
If you want one but don't have it yet then first buy it !
This is extra important since that bag can easily interfere with anything else at the "cockpit",
especially with cables and tubes.
- Install all (all) luggageracks and then put on all luggage you want to be able to take on the bike !
It will take a lot of time to adjust all this correctly.
- Mount all (all) luggage you want to be able to take on the bike !
- Then start make several testrides, with several days inbetween them.
- Take all tools with you that you might need to adjust anything.
- Adjust steeringheight, handlebar-, brakehandles- and saddleposition (front-rear, angle, height), luggageracks and mudguards positions *
- Adjust the steeringheight by putting more or less distancerings below the steeringstem.
After having returned note their sizes !
- Mark the final height of the seatpost by making a small scratch on it with a screwdriver.
It will not fit with a coating.
- Mark the final inside and outside position of the grips.
You should use grips with a screwlock (for reasons of safety) and they will not fit with a coating.
- Shorten the handlebar (at the outerscratches ...).
- Disassemble the bike.
- Put all bolts, washers and nuts in a separate box !
Or even in more boxes like "frame", "frontrack", "rearrack", "fenders", etc.
- Create two or more (well marked) sets of parts if the bike shall have a two- or moretone colorscheme *
Use ie cartonboxes and put the Number of the Color on them !!!
You will probably not be there when the parts are coated ...
- Transport the parts to the powdercoating company *
- Wait for the productiontime to arrive (ask for a phonecall 1 hour in advance ?!).
- Then visit the company to make a photoreportage of the coating process *
- Wait 1 hour at site to let all the parts cool down, pay the bill and transport the parts home*
- Make a list of all bolts and nuts of all the parts.
Note the types x lenghts and buy them asap before the final assembly.
- Then buy them all in a socket and selflocking stainless steel version (1) !
- Tip : stainless steel is available in a 304 (or A2) and a 316 (or A4) grade.
Choose the 316 since that is the best.
- Or order them in one or more of those brightcolored anodized versions (2) at any webshop.
- Your bike, your tools and your eyes will love them (1) !
- And maybe even other persons eyes will love them too (2) ...
- Assemble the bike finally, make testrides *
- Process some nice pictures of the assembled bike.
- Show the bike at the powdercoating company and Do deliver a free set of the photos for their commercial use*
I build and assembled the
OnTheRoad 4.0 🖱️
without weight (and prices) being a real issue.
This bicycle should last and last and last for years and will have to rest outside 365/24.
It therefore should not in anyway be of less then perfect durability nor quality.
Although weight and money are not always in a lineair way related to those aspects.
Here you can read about
weights 🖱️
of the OnTheRoad 4.0.
Enjoy 😃.
